Kevin Thaw has been called the "best all-around climber in Britain," (Climber magazine) and with a move to California, his status has made him one of America's most celebrated climbers.

Kevin's days of climbing began in his hometown of Uppermill, England where he quickly earned a reputation. His first ascents on local grit include perilous routes such as "Order of the Phoenix" E9 6c, "Sectioned" E8 6c, "Scuttle Buttin' " E7 6c,  "Minnie Monster" E7 6c, "Breakin' for a Bogey" E6 6c. As a youth; 2nd ascents of "Thing on a Spring" E6 7a, "Appointment with Fear" E7 6b, "Possessed" E7, "Scoop de Grace" E5 7a (UK first 7a?). Sport routes, such as; "Powerband" 8b, "Austrian Oak" 8a+; "Revelations" 8a+, ,...



                  Highlight Ascents (select):


Alpine: Tibet, Everest NNE ridge (summited June 14th '07). Nepali Himalaya, Cholatse Southwest Ridge, Pumori East Face.  Alpine style quest on Jannu's North Face,... Garhwal Himalaya India, Kedar Dome's E pillar alpine style mission.

Argentine Patagonia, Fitzroy North (Cassarotto) Pillar 1400m, 5.11+. Poincenot West face (Fonrouge) 1300m, 5.11+. Cerro Torre Compressor route, St Exupery, Aguja de l' S,.. Climbed pretty much all the main towers/main summits in Argentine Patagonia (El Chalten) excepting one, Torre Egger next season!

Ruth Gorge Alaska, Eye Tooth's 3rd ascent, W Pillar.

French Alps, solos (as a very wee youth) of Midi’s Frendo Spur TD (3h 56m), Swiss Route Les Courtes TD (3h 28m), North face of Les Droites ED1 (8h), Bonatti Zappelli Mt Blanc, ED1 winter,... Rolling Stone ED3 & No Siesta ED2/3, early repeats on the Grand Jorasses. Many European Alpine season with a couple of trips up the Eiger's N face,...

Canadian Rockies, solo of Mt Temple's North Face Greenwood/Locke ED1 (4h 17m).


Big Walls: Reticent Wall VI 5.9 A5 second ascent, Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.9 A5 second ascent (El Capitan, CA). Early repeats of: Gulf Stream A4+ (3rd ascent), Shortest Straw A4 (3rd), KAOS A4 (5th), Sea of Dreams A5 (5th), Wyoming Sheep Ranch A5 (7th), Space A4+ (2nd solo), Roulette A5.

Many Continuous push "Speed" ascents: West Buttress (Solo) A3+, Lost in America A5, Born Under a Bad Sign A5, Magic Mushroom A4, Flight of the Albatross A3+, Shortest Straw A4, Horsechute A3, Nose (6 hours), Sunkist A4, Eagle's Way A3, Shield, Salathe, Lurking Fear,... (El Capitan, CA). 

First enchainment of Mali's Hand of Fatima (5 towers), 2600-ish metres, 7a+ (12a). (W Africa).


Ice & Mixed: Replicant V WI 7, French Reality V WI6+, Nemesis VI WI6, Sea of Vapours V M6 WI6+ (Canadian Rockies). Onsighted Amphibian’s 1st pitch M8+ (Vail CO). Winter solos of Slipstream, V WI4+ and Andromeda’s Shooting Gallery IV 9 M5 (Rockies, Canada).


Free Climbing: Benign Lives E7 6c (on-sight solo). Thing on a String E6 7a (2nd ascent), Appointment with Fear E7 6b (2nd ascent). Shine On E8 6c, Moon Madness E8 6c, End of the Affair E8 6c. (UK Gritstone).

On-sighted a few 8a+ routes and loads of 8a's including recent 2nd ascent of Joshua Tree's (CA) Taste the Pain 8a; Redpointed 8b+ routes.


Bouldering: Several V11's (8a), many V10s,.....



Bio on "Wikipedia".


                  First ascents (select):



Fitzroy's West face, 2600m VI 85º 11c (first free ascent) (Patagonia, Argentina).

SCUD, 1300m 5.11 A1+ W4+, Cerro Standhardt direct start to Exocet (Patagonia, Argentina).

The Thaw’s not Houlding Wright, 1400m 5.10+ Aguja de l’ S West face (Patagonia, Argentina).

Crowfoot Mtn V WI4 M6 (Rockies, Canada).

Cup Tie V 11 A2 Mt Temple's N Face (Rockies, Canada).

Mt Luis Direct East Face V 5.10+R (Rockies, Canada).

Mt Babel East Face first free ascent 5.11+ (Rockies, Canada).


Big Walls:

Low's Wall VI 5.12 A2, Mt Kinabalu Massif (Borneo, Malaysia).

El Capitan's Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4 (Yosemite, CA).

Alaskan Rose VI 5.11c (Kichatnas, AK). 

Dreams of Sea VI 5.10+ (Kichatnas, AK).

La Bas (800m) 5.12,  Taghia Cirque, High Atlas (Morocco).

Sand, Sand n’ Sand VI 5.11+ A4 (Zion, UT).

Sentinel’s Direct North face V 5.12 first free ascent (Yosemite, CA).


Ice & Mixed:

Gogarth Crack,M9 (Ouray, CO).

Careless Torque M8+, Staged Fright M7, Haggis Country WI5 M7 (Lee Vining, CA).

Rebel Alliance VIII 8 (Cairngorms, Scotland).


UK Gritstone, (Traditional routes):

Order of the Phoenix E9 6c, Sectioned E8 6c, Scuttle Buttin E7 6c, Minnie Monster E7 6c, Breakin for a Bogey E6 6c, Piedra Verde E6 6a, Northern Passing XS 6c,…



Standard 8b 14a, Brachiation Dance 13d, Crema del Este 13c, Car logos n’ Savage Sets 5.13c, Moondance 13b, Stun Gun Direct 5.13b, Nailed to the Cross 5.13a, Cadillac Desert 13a, Bolt Worthy 13a, Toxteth Walk, Pennine Crack, To Hold, Druid’s scoop,…


Many more free climbing first ascents far & wide: Argentina, Chile, Canada, France, Germany, Switzerland, Mali, Madagascar, Pitcairn Island, India, Thailand,...



Satband V11, Iron Slap V10, Tidal right V10, Whale V10, Powerband West V9, Grit Dreams V9, Mooned V9, Stateside V9,….


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