Reticent Wall Sees Second Ascent...
On May 4, 1997, Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Chris Kalous began the second ascent of the Reticent Wall - VI 5.9 A5 on El Capitan, Yosemite, CA.
Widely recognized as having probably the most difficult aid pitch anywhere, the Reticent Wall is no small feat. A total of 21 pitches, this extended route begins on New Dawn and continues to the top of "The Captain". The climbing is sustained and intricate throughout this relatively new line and the pitch above "Wino Tower" is no casual affair. "Master Corner" will tax your spirit some, as the climbers were all too aware. "It's 120ft. of "body weight" to the first rivet" said Synnott. The crux pitch, "The Natural", waits atop the stone. This seemingly endless granite void is 175ft. of unenhanced, "body weight" placements - a true testament to the big wall mastery of first ascentionist, Steve Gerberding. The pitch is said to be the only "true A5" known to exist at this time.
"It's the most technically difficult thing I've ever done" says Synnott of the "new wave" A5 route. "All I want to say about the Reticent is that Kevin is one sick fucker to lead that A5 pitch. That is one of the only times I have watched someone truly risk their life. I was scared just belaying. I feel sorry for the next chump that tries to step up."
It took the team 7 days to reach the top. -- Mark Synnott
Reticent, an admirable quality, and a hell of a route.
Soaring through the steep golden stone of El Capitan's Dawn Wall lies a testament in modern aid climbing. Seven days in the building a pristine pitch is encountered atop the stone. Leering above uncertain landings with not a single enhanced feature, natural delicate passage is offered throughout. First taxed by expando, thin heads, then the hooks will abound. Steve Gerberding went for it on this one, which should always be left as it's found.
In keeping with the route's title too much shouldn't be said, but do take care above Wino, and revel in it all. -- KT