Cameron Lawson initially accompanied Mark Synnott & I into the Ruth Gorge. The first precipitous outing involved the Eye Tooth's second ascent (according to Joe Reichart). Via it's W pillar (Orgler) route (photo right).  An all free line, twenty full length 60m pitches. Descent is down the route, many, many rappels. Eye Tooth's rock was mainly solid & fun to climb, good compact granite. Run-out (very little protection) 5.9-ish climbing vaguely following an arete, characterized the routes first half. Occasional bits of truly wonderful climbing interspersed with blocky or wet sections. The lower arete joins the upper headwall on a terrace, slightly steeper, still good rock. A crusty thin crack was the line I chose from the terrace; run-out, in keeping with character and around 5.10+ -ish. The routes remainder stayed similar in grade to the lower portion, though steeper, corners linked to handcracks until the angle subsided.  

Storms never begin when one isn't committed; ours began on the final pitch, quickly coating everything in grapple and verglass. The first ascent team placed descent anchors after their climb, luckily all were still obvious and mostly okay. The storm abated half way down. yet endless rappelling and occasional missiles freed by the ropes left Cameron unconvinced on the next (prime) objective; Mt Dickey. Instead he opted to bail, feeling the necessary images were obtained . His leaving soured the weather, granting nowt but a five day - twenty four/seven tent sit. Mark & I thought we'd be living large with the remaining "three man" food supply; but dented it heavily (ate all the tasty treats in little more than a day) during storm time.

When the weather did peel back, we got up thinkin' Mt Dickey,!, but high streamers, a pressure drop and lack of tasty food had us flying back to town waiting out the next round of weather. Unfortunately we couldn't have kept enough food for climbing if tent-bound for another stormy week. More Twix acquired, plus coffee filters (essential for de-furring water) then back to snow life: Deposited by Paul Roderick's Talkeetna Air Taxi DeHaviland "Beaver"; this time right under Dickey on a side glacier ("747 Pass") of the Ruth. One hundred yards from the first pitch & the most deluxe camp-scene. Adjacent to medial moraine, we built a stone path from tent to snow free rubble, enabling casual strolls and outside time without suiting up. Doesn't sound much I know; but the ability to just step out in a glacial valley of which 99% non-snow coated surface requires a rack & cords is a true luxury. Cameron would have liked this spot; the consumption of his own Teas previously kept his tent departures frequent. Foolishly he was delegated to acquire the trip's Tea: Two herbal varieties were chosen, "Smooth Move" & "Get regular" ?!